Sunday, 28 September 2008

The famous Czechs were all Germans

“All the famous Czechs were Germans” is a saying you’ll sometimes hear when you ask about the prominent personalities of Czech history.

It usually refers to the period before WWI, when Bohemia and Moravia were part of the Austrian and Austro-Hungarian Empires. Germans lived side by side with Czechs (in varying degrees of harmony) in Bohemia and Moravia from the 13th Century until the end of WWII, when they were expelled by presidential decree.

Sigmund Freud is probably the most famous historic figure to whom the saying refers. Despite being born in Příbor, North Moravia, in 1856, he is usually associated with Vienna and London before the land of his birth. It’s true he spent only his youngest years there before being whisked off to Vienna by his family, but most scholars agree that Freud’s early years in the Czech lands (and his nanny Monika Zajicova) were heavily influential on his later theories.

Gregor Mendel was another important thinker from a small town in North Moravia. Born in Hynčice in 1822, Mendel went on to study mathematics, physics, philosophy and ethics at the Olomouc University, before entering a monastery in Brno and laying the foundation for the science of genetics by experimenting with pea plants in the garden there.

Oscar Schindler’s influence on the world was more localized, but no less important, especially to the descendants of the Jewish workers that he saved from Nazi concentration camps by declaring them essential workers for his Krakow factory. As the war turned against Germany and the Russians advanced, Schindler moved his entire operation including about a thousand Jewish workers to a village in the Czech-Moravian highlands, not far from his hometown of Svitavy. Where, incidentally, there’s an excellent museum in his honour and a commemorative statue near the house he grew up in.

Gustav Mahler and Franz Kafka are two more prominent figures in German culture. Mahler was an important composer and conductor who was born near Jihlava in 1860 and Kafka is one of the most influential writers of the early 20th century. In much of his work the gloomy atmosphere of his native Prague is tangible enough to almost be a character of its own.

So Mahler, Freud, Mendel, Schindler and Kafka are the reasons this phrase came into existence, but is it really true?

Were the most famous Czechs all Germans?

If someone asked you to name five famous Czechs, which names would spring first to your mind?

Wednesday, 24 September 2008

Where the Czech...? #59

Where? But bonus points for what, who and why? Anybody know?

Sunday, 21 September 2008

Ještěd

Years ago an architect friend told me about Ještěd and said it was her favourite modern building in the Czech Republic. She described a mountain peak with a aerodynamic circular tower that was wide at the base and swooped up to a beesting point at the top, and gestured to show how the building adopted the slope of the hill and extended it so that it seemed like the hilltop was built for the tower, rather than the other way round.

To be proper, Ještěd is the name of the peak on which the tower stands, but the location and the construction have become so inseparable now that nobody ever says ‘the tower on top of Ještěd’ or ‘the hotel on top of Ještěd’, they just say ‘Ještěd’ and everybody knows it means the hill and the tower that extends it.

My architect friend is not the only one to have admired Ještěd. In 1969 architect Karel Hubaček was awarded the Perret prize (for technology applied to architecture) by the International Union of Architects. In 1998 it was made a national cultural monument, in 2000 voted Construction of the Century by the Czech public, and in 2006 featured in David Ondraček’s film Grand Hotel.



Ještěd has become a symbol of the nearby city of Liberec and the entire region, and is one of the most distinctive modern buildings in the country. Nosing around on their website, I noticed that the hotel in the tower was offering good discounts for weeknights in the off season. A single room was going to cost 710Kč for a night, which I thought very reasonable for such an iconic building.

My room was up on the sixth floor, where the bathroom facilities are out on the corridor. The gently wedge-shaped room had four tall, narrow windows with curved corners, a natty brushed aluminium radiator cover, ship-like circular air vents and three big metallic discs built into the ceiling. I couldn’t figure out what those discs were for, as the ventilation and lighting was all over near the windows.

One was only hanging by three bolts so I pulled across a table and tried to unscrew them. The bolts were more than finger tight, but by the time I remembered the spanners in my toolkit, I also started to think it was probably not good manners to dismantle a hotel room if you’re only staying for one night, and decided to leave well enough alone.

The aluminium windows don’t open, but the rotating air vents to the side take care of ventilation; O for Open and Z for closed. Not long after I checked in a storm blew in from the valley right to the window. Quite an amazing sight to see the clouds swirling in and twisting like waves as the wind tangled them around the tower. The constant roar of the wind helped give the impression of being on some kind of 1970’s television spaceship.

The sixth floor is as high as you can go in the tower; everything above is used by technicians and other personnel. The fifth floor has the luxury ensuite hotel rooms, the fourth is the restaurant and the third is the where the entrance ramps deposit you at hotel reception. The lower floors are closed to the public and are used for storage and utilities.

In the central core of the tower is a staircase for personnel, and around that core are arranged the practicalities like bathrooms, kitchens, storerooms, staircases and elevators. Then around the outside near the windows are the hotel rooms and seating areas of the restaurant. On the reception level there’s also an enclosed observation deck that runs around the circumference.

The building is unique and it’s probably the closest I’ll ever come to being in the spaceships I once admired in Battlestar Galactica and Star Wars, but the views alone would have made the climb worthwhile. They say you can see Prague on a clear day, and I think I caught a glimpse of Říp mountain on the horizon, but at night, it’s the lights of Liberec brightening up the valley below that give the best views.

To get there, I followed cycle trail #3007 from Český Dub and the #14 from Turnov before that. From Liberec, you can take tram #3 to its final stop at Horní Hanychov and take the cable car from 200m further along the same road. It’s 60Kč just to go up or 100Kč for the return trip. From the same tram terminus you can also follow the blue-marked hiking trail which will bring you to the peak after 4km.

Just watch out for Ewoks as you pass through the forest.

Wednesday, 17 September 2008

Where the Czech...? #58

Does anybody recognise this location in the Czech Republic?

Sunday, 14 September 2008

What to pack for cycling


This weekend I started the second leg of my cycle trip around the country.

The loose route at the moment is from Jičín to Turnov, Malá Skala and Liberec; then via Ještěd through the Czech Switzerland national park, before turning south towards Ústí nad Labem, Terezín and Litoměřice. From there via Říp mountain to Mělník, Budeč and Lidice, just outside Prague.

I don’t fancy cycling in or writing about Prague though, so I’ll turn west towards Slany, Louny, Most and Chomutov, where I hope to catch the Olomouc hockey team in action at the end of September. The first week of October I’ll spend in West Bohemia before finishing this stage of the trip with a few days in Plzeň.

As always, if anyone has any tips or suggestions, I’m all ears. The tips I received last time from various sources were very helpful.

On the last trip I was surprised how many people asked about the equipment I was using. Unfortunately I don’t have interesting tales to tell about hi-tech cycling outfits or GPS devices or titanium bits and pieces. The second-hand bike I’m using owes me about 3000Kč ($200) now, including the panniers and handlebar bag in which I carry:

  • Trousers, a long sleeved shirt and 2 brightly-coloured t-shirts for cycling
  • Another pair of trousers, a pair of shorts and two shirts for wearing around towns
  • One pair of shoes and one pair of sandals
  • As many socks and underpants as space allows
  • A bright yellow poncho
  • A basic tool kit, spare tube and elastic straps
  • A small towel, a facewasher and a bag of toiletries
  • Camera and battery charger
  • Phone and charger
  • Computer, memory sticks, a couple of notebooks and some pens
  • Maps and printed information
  • Sunglasses and helmet
  • And last but not least, my wallet and keys for the bike lock
The small Asus Eee computer is a new addition to the panniers. On the last trip, I carried a former housemate’s clunky old Dell that weighs about 4 kilograms. The new little Eee is not much larger than a Lonely Planet guidebook and weighs 1.1 Kilos.

Having bumped into several travellers carrying these little machines I had the chance to try before buying and was pretty impressed with what I found. One of the only complaints was that the small screens required too much side to side scrolling, so I waited especially for the newer model to come out, as it has a 9-inch screen; 2 inches wider than the older model.

A couple of Eee owners said “it’s good for what it is, but you wouldn’t want to write a book on it”. Which of course, is exactly what I want to use it for. So we’ll see how that goes.

The book so far is progressing…slowly.

I think it will be smoother from now on though, because working on the first stage has given me a fair idea of how the book will be arranged, and I’ll be able to take better notes this time around. The book will be about the interesting places that I’m visiting, and each destination will have a chapter of its own; some might have two. Because it’s also a book about a cycle trip, the destination chapters will be linked by (much shorter) chapters about the travelling days and the cycle routes.

Hopefully it will be interesting enough for somebody to want to publish. If not, you’ll find it here for free as an ebook.

Wish me luck. See you on the other side.

Wednesday, 10 September 2008

Where the Czech...? #57


Jay solved #56 within hours, so let's have another challenge. Anybody recognise this swan's location?

Where the Czech...? #56



A slideshow for this week's Where the Czech...? destination. Does anybody recognise it?

Wednesday, 3 September 2008

Where the Czech...? #55

Easy one this week! Who'll be first to tell us where this is?