tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-43199861348691809642024-03-22T02:21:35.944+01:00The journeys of Captain OddsocksCzech Republic travels and tourism: Prague, Bohemia, Cesky Krumlov, Olomouc, Karlovy Vary: daytrips, guided tours, restaurants, hostels, hotels and moreCaptain Oddsockshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04171705425795102480noreply@blogger.comBlogger308125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4319986134869180964.post-61879724131881422262011-12-09T16:53:00.002+01:002011-12-11T16:55:21.860+01:00Where the Czech...? #163<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNgINp579JZrpxfnQVEkKlPNeZaPwSexZx3kiPnKFO8vtqEqoh1KhyKHuLit0NsVvjhIFmg15rF0OdHeKPM9kG7j1SqkW9qs8jjWpmlmjvL0pyY0O8izdrjHFY3hdvXt4iiVUxfqrsD8M/s1600/whereczech%2560163.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNgINp579JZrpxfnQVEkKlPNeZaPwSexZx3kiPnKFO8vtqEqoh1KhyKHuLit0NsVvjhIFmg15rF0OdHeKPM9kG7j1SqkW9qs8jjWpmlmjvL0pyY0O8izdrjHFY3hdvXt4iiVUxfqrsD8M/s400/whereczech%2560163.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5684899656776370082" /></a>This picture was taken from the third floor of a renaissance chateau. Do you know which town it's in?Captain Oddsockshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04171705425795102480noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4319986134869180964.post-73841152628726489512011-12-02T12:44:00.000+01:002011-12-02T12:44:00.811+01:00Where the Czech...? #162<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ0_4Y5ehtvMRNRSx0Huo1zkBpsK7trRdTGi1RdJkBxxtoMBGz2idKreWAyZmkcC2hYi3RiCuUYgMNHQPW1eFayW5Uf0vXce9UHBSoIZJF6lZvbOxRcAnxWb62Oc6GINeWBmuVC4NE4yE/s1600/whereczech162.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ0_4Y5ehtvMRNRSx0Huo1zkBpsK7trRdTGi1RdJkBxxtoMBGz2idKreWAyZmkcC2hYi3RiCuUYgMNHQPW1eFayW5Uf0vXce9UHBSoIZJF6lZvbOxRcAnxWb62Oc6GINeWBmuVC4NE4yE/s400/whereczech162.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5678666105834898482" /></a>Does anyone know what and where this is?Captain Oddsockshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04171705425795102480noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4319986134869180964.post-34453702727448881472011-11-25T09:43:00.000+01:002011-11-25T09:43:00.062+01:00Where the Czech...? #161<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUSK-3UPgJR47tKf2pSQnZP8gzWqZCqL6j3nU2nl4_vLDeNLlIf2d3kjt5mBu_sep58LoWds71uAS2fucq7XpYO8xVMq7sCwNjLII5sg6KxM0j-G_Tft7PBeRj1B3ovS_8KXThJeTgM-4/s1600/whereczech161.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 299px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUSK-3UPgJR47tKf2pSQnZP8gzWqZCqL6j3nU2nl4_vLDeNLlIf2d3kjt5mBu_sep58LoWds71uAS2fucq7XpYO8xVMq7sCwNjLII5sg6KxM0j-G_Tft7PBeRj1B3ovS_8KXThJeTgM-4/s400/whereczech161.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5678665849362599026" /></a>Who'll be first to tell us where this is?Captain Oddsockshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04171705425795102480noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4319986134869180964.post-44314288638367456052011-11-22T23:19:00.010+01:002011-11-23T17:42:24.816+01:00These boots are made for walkin'...<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-26XVEzY0Dq_x3_2R5WotZYZEL1mW8BrIoiycu58uChWcKRVv-c2OX9vyRoAE9sKrthkbHk-VFssqLv2KqIkQVtIpx56IiWRmNeX8pdHNzIFEZyYQ8Oif5-b2c1D8_6gfbqXj-ifJHXg/s1600/zlin3.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-26XVEzY0Dq_x3_2R5WotZYZEL1mW8BrIoiycu58uChWcKRVv-c2OX9vyRoAE9sKrthkbHk-VFssqLv2KqIkQVtIpx56IiWRmNeX8pdHNzIFEZyYQ8Oif5-b2c1D8_6gfbqXj-ifJHXg/s400/zlin3.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5676837549592927394" /></a>In the context of Czech towns and cities that might be interesting to foreign travellers, <b>Zlín</b> is quite unusual because most of its tourist attractions are modern.<br /><br /><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixzyTYtPKQJZL_BH9cgqn0DwixPTkI4ya_g2l22VLKS9FbpXU4bPOWvuohwixU5d2gOFrDJNV2DJs16ShEQdENYQukUi45h_w1Qnn6CHkE6Y0aIanTxv8GoqvuM1vEBhDVOkQ9hqYUreI/s200/march2011+200.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5676837768918287330" />They're also connected with the story of one family and their company, <b>Baťa Shoes</b>. Siblings Anna, Antonín and Tomáš Baťa came from a long family line of cobblers but the company they founded in Zlín in 1894 became one of the biggest shoemaking concerns the world has ever seen and still has 50 factories, more than 4500 shops and almost 50,000 direct employees.<br /><br /><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkJzJ91QZ78iE_BUclNGWMoXxcIwpTdlzayBEFsUk2HbvqbbtIg-xvhBD6SODpoTK3RhwwkJtK9Dbs1c3dDQkCGa_Vd8d1P0pk36Ikt0yh_r4WaW7gqbbzIS5UprR8T7VmR-BCBbPSyXk/s200/zlin+231.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5676838468560467634" style="float: left; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px; " />There was an element of being in the right place at the right time for Baťa shoes (with the outbreak of World War One and huge orders from the Austrian army) but good management and integrity were key to the company's amazing expansion. Tomas Baťa was sometimes called the “Henry Ford of Eastern Europe” for his quickness to embrace the technologies of large-scale production, but he's best remembered in the history of Zlín for his integrity and social consciousness. Baťa employees were paid up to 4 times more than their counterparts in other countries and were assisted with housing, specialized training, medical care, insurance and retirement benefits decades (if not lifetimes) before before these things became the norm for factory workers elsewhere.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-26XVEzY0Dq_x3_2R5WotZYZEL1mW8BrIoiycu58uChWcKRVv-c2OX9vyRoAE9sKrthkbHk-VFssqLv2KqIkQVtIpx56IiWRmNeX8pdHNzIFEZyYQ8Oif5-b2c1D8_6gfbqXj-ifJHXg/s1600/zlin3.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmNhUDENFFoyyL7B-Og8__wS_wYexNdUaIi7bo8WVdnzEYfIA05RqviTyFd7A67qLfAnKm_qGgaePKLo7w0KJ5oa52RS2aPuxpYbJYiB7cscNhPA3DQftDI3wyshskToNSZNPlj995uq4/s200/gottwaldov.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5676839624986124690" style="float: right; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px; " /></a>The Baťa family left Czechoslovakia soon after the occupation by Nazi Germany, and in the late 1940s the remainder of Baťa shoes was nationalized by the new communist government. The communists tried to portray the Baťas as ruthless and exploitative capitalists, but such was the regard for the family that Jan Baťa was cleared of all 64 charges against him by an extraordinarily courageous jury. The communists came up with new charges, resorted to a closed military trial to justify the seizure of company assets and in 1949 Baťa shoes was renamed Svit, Zlín itself was renamed <b>Gottwaldov</b> (after the first Czech Communist president Klement Gottwald) and the Canadian province of Ontario became the new world home of Baťa shoes.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-GkU8ofS4q9CWWnvDqaTXZMSVOzhMgHKvAHoSdOUnH7QPM6Xi8qUaEaNYfVMLyEA1WWTJ4C7M9karRadpg0xh21HLix4JCLSjxAygsrYv-rUU-j8b0v-RDv-D6Om3RkYenXensm5afVc/s1600/corridor.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 158px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-GkU8ofS4q9CWWnvDqaTXZMSVOzhMgHKvAHoSdOUnH7QPM6Xi8qUaEaNYfVMLyEA1WWTJ4C7M9karRadpg0xh21HLix4JCLSjxAygsrYv-rUU-j8b0v-RDv-D6Om3RkYenXensm5afVc/s200/corridor.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5676842036195665090" /></a>Three places to find out more about the Zlín heyday of Baťa shoes are <b>building 21</b> (the former headquarters), the excellent and extensive <b>shoe museum</b>, and street after street of the cute little <b>Baťa villas</b> - the cubelike houses built by the leading architects of the first republic for Baťa factory workers.<br /><br /><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 163px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid0efZiEONcB0iOUVLP1B4Au9afKVCUohKTMQCtg2Rbfuvfau6kjrzgU-IeAYLUXd2NGpae2Ty0kK1Z487L8yfpHUwBp04Z-Lxyw5OsVM7FDXzT628ua5dqOH9f7b28WcyvCPrA8lZQvg/s200/villas.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5676841124811776674" />The distinctive <a href="http://www.muzeum-zlin.cz/cs/objekty/batovsky-domek/expozice-bydleni-v-batovskem-zline-/">Baťa villas</a> use the same combination of exposed red brick and pale grey concrete as the factories you'll see if you arrive at Zlín central station by train. Wandering the streets of villas and trying to imagine how wonderful they must have seemed to the factory workers of the 1920s and 30s is possible all year round, and from May through September the 1930s interior of the villa at Nad Ovčírnou II 1295 is also open to the public (unfortunately closed during 2011 'for technical reasons').<br /><br /><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMi20VBjom87EvW9_v5PX8aVaEhytG9vhf47NOCd_BdgUxHua7xwSfKjo_DSixLgqxVIeoAuYkcXSxBMQlH_SCBXUG3c-czInDw2mJkKZqnMS-JF3o9UNvEll8mg8L4OQdyinn4dotpfw/s200/zlin+213.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5676840319456685682" style="float: left; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 152px; " />The<a href="http://www.muzeum-zlin.cz/cs/objekty/obuvnicke-muzeum/"> shoe museum</a> takes its visitors through seven centuries of shoes ranging from peasant boots to embroidered royal slippers to a pair of 41cm monsters made for an American basketball player. There's also a recreated workshop and displays of techniques and tools. For non-Czech speakers there are translated booklets explaining all the exhibits, the history of shoemaking in general and the Baťa company specifically.<br /><br />Building 21, the <b>Zlín skyscraper</b>, offers a wonderful view over the city from its new rooftop cafe and terrace, the chance to ride a continuous paternoster elevator and to visit the boss's office which was built in an 6x6m elevator (fitted with air-conditioning and running water) that could travel horizontally as well as vertically throughout the skyscraper! Unfortunately that was also closed on my last visit to Zlín, so I don't have any photos to show you, but the best way to remedy that is to plan a little trip to south Moravia and see it for yourself!<br /><br /><iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/g7Jz-FGL0L4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>Captain Oddsockshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04171705425795102480noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4319986134869180964.post-68329240118906957002011-11-21T13:22:00.005+01:002011-11-21T13:41:14.010+01:00Markéta Irglová - Crossroads<iframe width="450" height="274" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/anIaAcPugzo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe><br /><br />Some nice shots of Wallachia sprinkled through this clip. See if you can spot the main square of <a href="http://captainoddsocks.blogspot.com/2011/10/hats-novy-jicin-novy-jicin-stramberk.html">Nový Jičín.</a>Captain Oddsockshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04171705425795102480noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4319986134869180964.post-74032615251622827202011-11-18T06:28:00.000+01:002011-11-18T06:28:00.900+01:00Where the Czech...? #160<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAycM4yY_wm6K-if0hKFtG9MCOsogRLIvhKcBmtc0TbAvAdq7GoxFvmDsRRvJB792nZZ62yEqGbzJAT9eutnSJDOcabqGKBL1v7rufW4sPIDxlIcZTgDmE1DipiPn1_Xvby5A1D6MntcA/s1600/whereczech160.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 310px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAycM4yY_wm6K-if0hKFtG9MCOsogRLIvhKcBmtc0TbAvAdq7GoxFvmDsRRvJB792nZZ62yEqGbzJAT9eutnSJDOcabqGKBL1v7rufW4sPIDxlIcZTgDmE1DipiPn1_Xvby5A1D6MntcA/s400/whereczech160.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5672678206552312002" /></a>Who knows which town this town hall belongs to?Captain Oddsockshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04171705425795102480noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4319986134869180964.post-72504946392966617692011-11-17T04:53:00.001+01:002011-11-17T13:54:38.197+01:00Grandmother's Valley<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihxKqPA43ei7nBrtH9WlI1gBghKvG7zNQTzSjWJvcuTKb3Mj7EzbOMT0ZWF1hNev15bJ_e5kbdsP5ioZn61IebuyeG7giunomWSQ7vQNOlRYLH292OMTWLVyCj6J8_zoACdWcQbaGlnN8/s1600/gran2.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 306px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihxKqPA43ei7nBrtH9WlI1gBghKvG7zNQTzSjWJvcuTKb3Mj7EzbOMT0ZWF1hNev15bJ_e5kbdsP5ioZn61IebuyeG7giunomWSQ7vQNOlRYLH292OMTWLVyCj6J8_zoACdWcQbaGlnN8/s400/gran2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5672672446654411970" /></a><br /><span style="font-style:italic;" >"It was long, long ago, when last I gazed on that dear face, kissed those pale, wrinkled cheeks, and tried to fathom the depths of those blue eyes, in which were hidden so much goodness and love."</span><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb1cEAm6c-A9gtArtaG-52h_uxU8jdC3UTTuMDQwrfKWEo9tUdTamQvGxvPjt4WvCXmXgzgVTXBvwx4xp-PyEYEMKfKuwuq63A96NGsdyZ9CRITK8fDHIesHGmerpgp9dpOkhFk1hJqTM/s1600/bozena.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 162px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb1cEAm6c-A9gtArtaG-52h_uxU8jdC3UTTuMDQwrfKWEo9tUdTamQvGxvPjt4WvCXmXgzgVTXBvwx4xp-PyEYEMKfKuwuq63A96NGsdyZ9CRITK8fDHIesHGmerpgp9dpOkhFk1hJqTM/s200/bozena.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5672673784127853266" /></a>The author of this simple lament for her deceased grandmother was one of Czech literature's most highly regarded figures, <b>Božena Němcová</b>. Her image graces the five hundred crown banknote, and the cool, green valley of the Úpa river around the Ratibořice chateau is called Grandmother's valley after her most beloved character. <span style="font-weight:bold;">Grandmother</span> is an iconic story in Romantic Czech literature and if you think of the regard for stories like Huckleberry Finn or the Adventures of Robin Hood you’ll have an idea of the tale's place in the national consciousness.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKGJbINn28o5rlQGuF8adibwZPPv5vtgU0dgOHnC2xqWys9cPR7sPzxlXvXakb-1NnzzvdNtmxdNJzfVXBPz0Uoqm0VeVbS54FEQuSJHN5aSjG5IRg461kkhr4daW3eJz2abbmPmj2Cjc/s1600/gran5.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 155px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKGJbINn28o5rlQGuF8adibwZPPv5vtgU0dgOHnC2xqWys9cPR7sPzxlXvXakb-1NnzzvdNtmxdNJzfVXBPz0Uoqm0VeVbS54FEQuSJHN5aSjG5IRg461kkhr4daW3eJz2abbmPmj2Cjc/s200/gran5.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5672674302536747026" /></a>For anyone who has read Grandmother and wants to find out more, the gentle, leafy stretch of the <b>Úpa river valley</b> from Havlovice to Česká Skalice is a good place to start. Božena's father worked as a stablehand at the Ratibořice chateau for most of her childhood and it along with the other prominent buildings of the valley provide the setting for her stories.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVqrUfsz0ycs7J8sVcAX4Le01ZxJJA24scnVJCJlb2hyphenhyphenEGf2WmBOvd4ME5uA5W8vgOfWkoq6v_XGA80S4Frj17zFS5MsMnm8KyDrRSQumBugnmYeUT8vs9P1NktQZnD9q3aHQ5vUtD8M4/s1600/gran6.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 151px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVqrUfsz0ycs7J8sVcAX4Le01ZxJJA24scnVJCJlb2hyphenhyphenEGf2WmBOvd4ME5uA5W8vgOfWkoq6v_XGA80S4Frj17zFS5MsMnm8KyDrRSQumBugnmYeUT8vs9P1NktQZnD9q3aHQ5vUtD8M4/s200/gran6.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5672674482917504178" /></a>The <b>Ratibořice chateau</b> sits on the side of a low hill surrounded by dense gardens. As you crossed the Úpa River and follow the road across its open floodplain, the trees of the forest provide an almost theatrical backdrop. As you draw close to the chateau around the gentle right hand bend, the huge carpark and the jumble of souvenir and refreshment stands will make immediately clear just how popular this place is among individuals and school groups.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjdZj_-i8doWb4N_x9sTWaJjNUMlzpov9r8rtS5v85BZK0B55mUHzb8o0Wq7pVBHdpekY9s1eTyixg8YASsiL6rzrep4rT1Jcj5nHS7Oui-les6G_2QcKZTF4FKWd0prwz-vxs07yvJew/s1600/gran3.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 154px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjdZj_-i8doWb4N_x9sTWaJjNUMlzpov9r8rtS5v85BZK0B55mUHzb8o0Wq7pVBHdpekY9s1eTyixg8YASsiL6rzrep4rT1Jcj5nHS7Oui-les6G_2QcKZTF4FKWd0prwz-vxs07yvJew/s200/gran3.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5672674807472788530" /></a>A little further along the same road is the <b>old water mill</b>. The narrow channel that runs alongside still turns the huge wooden waterwheels, but the roguish miller and his family are long gone. Further up the valley again near a weir is the wide flat plain called bělidlo, which come from the word běla or bíla meaning white. Usually translated into English as the Bleachery, it was the place that the peasants of the valley gathered to wash their linen and clothes and spread them out on the even grass to dry in the sunshine. The wooden cottage there was Božena's childhood home.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7bkdfOnrWkq14axNzc_o8EtAmzqSnOb-aaaiyrDIIiL_qVeLKWUJdhy-XNp5beAesIsw74Fw6gmdtIMJLbB8F-SVeCLvxRb1XkWePBuZell2etFqvn1w3vtjxcMGQimEuF1oJbHtG__8/s1600/gran7.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7bkdfOnrWkq14axNzc_o8EtAmzqSnOb-aaaiyrDIIiL_qVeLKWUJdhy-XNp5beAesIsw74Fw6gmdtIMJLbB8F-SVeCLvxRb1XkWePBuZell2etFqvn1w3vtjxcMGQimEuF1oJbHtG__8/s200/gran7.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5672675259949164162" /></a>When you've explored the chateau, the mill and the cottage at the old bleachery, there's also a very pretty 3km path along which young Božena walked from Ratibořice to attend <b>school in Česká Skalice</b>. The path is marked with signs describing the history but they’re only in Czech. The Božena Němcová museum in Česká Skalice's old wooden schoolhouse has translations for the exhibits.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8a-fJ0tp6kPCWLO2Iwoj7_zkbc3e1uO8QFUn6YWgTWuZ1pxuW7xBjU3Kz8nqaKc5eUJDMkyRvTHiARPIqKWH6jxIT3p70h9JOpoHgv61BdJ0JuNqXkMrlmItpAo_f4EKMeKl3l54g96I/s1600/gran4.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8a-fJ0tp6kPCWLO2Iwoj7_zkbc3e1uO8QFUn6YWgTWuZ1pxuW7xBjU3Kz8nqaKc5eUJDMkyRvTHiARPIqKWH6jxIT3p70h9JOpoHgv61BdJ0JuNqXkMrlmItpAo_f4EKMeKl3l54g96I/s200/gran4.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5672675521549717202" /></a>Even if you won't make it to Grandmothers valley, take a look at Božena's portrait on the <a href="http://captainoddsocks.blogspot.com/2010/06/czech-history-may-seem-obtuse-to.html">five hundred crown banknote</a> and keep an eye out for statues of her or streets named in her honour. She's an important and respected figure in modern Czech history and if you're spending much time in the Czech Republic it's good to be aware of at least a couple of those.Captain Oddsockshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04171705425795102480noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4319986134869180964.post-36316642694942468052011-11-14T08:39:00.000+01:002011-11-14T08:39:00.291+01:00What is happiness? - Sunflower caravan<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/uN35JAiHlkg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>Captain Oddsockshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04171705425795102480noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4319986134869180964.post-55133121389961281592011-11-11T11:24:00.000+01:002011-11-11T11:24:00.354+01:00Where the Czech...? #159<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1qtywxx9IdnBqNPaAOgwnNAdwzHKwBL9baMT608jSwb6lIJuNiQlxFrcssx7kR_k-7cSSY9ApvXrDqren_hWKDK6sYbrlBYdlQG-85AUKb98nZhIhg_EFNIcz9raMQU7GW7SgIm-zRs0/s1600/whereczech159.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 312px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1qtywxx9IdnBqNPaAOgwnNAdwzHKwBL9baMT608jSwb6lIJuNiQlxFrcssx7kR_k-7cSSY9ApvXrDqren_hWKDK6sYbrlBYdlQG-85AUKb98nZhIhg_EFNIcz9raMQU7GW7SgIm-zRs0/s400/whereczech159.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5672677311705618530" /></a>I don't think I've ever seen a more unlikely buttress than the one that leaps up to support the side of this old Gothic church. Does anyone know where it is?Captain Oddsockshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04171705425795102480noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4319986134869180964.post-69892809933782519402011-11-08T15:18:00.012+01:002011-11-08T16:23:58.985+01:00Between two churches...<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzr8y2DLWEROd3j-aciCjMLVg1QDfqtFnbqLzUIlwoxNYVm3X9UoIrtrPjT42k7z3ITyoHvCCcx_DWxeMXFJxmDiJMX73mkXZqWhu0JgYet_PhtPt2h5TVwUnlBy75qZduVzredI_XHps/s1600/frydek1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 275px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzr8y2DLWEROd3j-aciCjMLVg1QDfqtFnbqLzUIlwoxNYVm3X9UoIrtrPjT42k7z3ITyoHvCCcx_DWxeMXFJxmDiJMX73mkXZqWhu0JgYet_PhtPt2h5TVwUnlBy75qZduVzredI_XHps/s400/frydek1.jpg" border="0" alt="Frydek square and chateau"id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5672639026251088290" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Frýdek-Místek</span> is a city of around 60,000 inhabitants that straddles the Ostravice river about 18km (11 miles) south of Ostrava. The river here forms the border between the old historic lands of Moravia and Silesia and the hyphen might be a clue that Frýdek-Místek was once two towns. Frýdek chateau sits atop a high rocky outcrop on the eastern, Silesian side of the river; Místek was founded to watch over the lower, western, Moravian side of the river crossing.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKRUthnOfTB9qWQBEyRkxTp_JKTwf_FZQ5Gf2VWh0DMNnv7xoMbmK5zr_Wi58r0EUfd_FsAnJYXLrNrO2h0vYp-uQhm7axadQZ0XFcG4u4iiuLDi1vHGxopUz5dikXlEg2PG-6gXpF1_o/s1600/frudek5.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 152px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKRUthnOfTB9qWQBEyRkxTp_JKTwf_FZQ5Gf2VWh0DMNnv7xoMbmK5zr_Wi58r0EUfd_FsAnJYXLrNrO2h0vYp-uQhm7axadQZ0XFcG4u4iiuLDi1vHGxopUz5dikXlEg2PG-6gXpF1_o/s200/frudek5.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5672645428874946546" /></a>The two tiny historic town centres of Frýdek and Místek are now surrounded by a sprawl of everything that was good and bad about the architecture and town planning of the socialist era. The high density apartment towers are separated by generous green spaces and the wide footpaths, tunnels and courtyards make it easy for pedestrians to get to either old town or the the bus and train stations that are just on the Frýdek side of the river. Unfortunately though, the lawns and gardens are unkempt, the pathways are crumbling and littered and the ground-floor shops that should have been grocery stores, hairdressers and newsagents have devolved into dark and mostly deserted non-stop bars filled with flashing lights and hypnotized gamblers.<br /><br />Luckily there's more to Frýdek-Místek than its bedraggled suburbs and most visitors will probably spend their time in one or both of the historic old towns. The street layout of both is preserved.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaglUM55OgWHoG2_XCbMRHzy0wNQedj5_BeuudEuF0XO4io0AIbHXfyOlDUW4OIxquEddRjjYvSJLwE3ysnufMWe6DGifpsR_oEMzg1-NW6vX_ILMNMAD1LeiVj4_rSLRVt9wkE1dS5t0/s1600/mistek1.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 151px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaglUM55OgWHoG2_XCbMRHzy0wNQedj5_BeuudEuF0XO4io0AIbHXfyOlDUW4OIxquEddRjjYvSJLwE3ysnufMWe6DGifpsR_oEMzg1-NW6vX_ILMNMAD1LeiVj4_rSLRVt9wkE1dS5t0/s200/mistek1.jpg" border="0" alt="Church of St James in Mistek"id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5672639301799283026" /></a><span style="font-weight:bold;">Místek</span> is the smaller of the two and just off the tidy marketplace square stands the most impressive building. The church of St. James was originally Gothic but the striking red and white plaster and pear-shaped copper dome are from a later reconstruction in the baroque style. Many of the houses around the old marketplace square are quite attractive and one side has a beautiful long arcade walkway from the 1500's. There are some insensitive and ugly buildings on the square too, and because the old town of Místek is so small, you really only have to walk one block to be among the grimly oppressive pavilions that sell discount clothes and house a hard-to-comprehend number of seedy all-night gambling bars.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIHihOYe8PZxW1nnBiHoh-MXIax0aG1oBNJMUh9hcQ3NXwhpYP701qcNKy60y633FagkttwlAke_k6DQjo_U3sSzUHrJq5VQiGVDtKTvhJ109e1xogLQhn2Cvzg1Kus5ZN3b3024B9ojs/s1600/frydek3.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 151px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIHihOYe8PZxW1nnBiHoh-MXIax0aG1oBNJMUh9hcQ3NXwhpYP701qcNKy60y633FagkttwlAke_k6DQjo_U3sSzUHrJq5VQiGVDtKTvhJ109e1xogLQhn2Cvzg1Kus5ZN3b3024B9ojs/s200/frydek3.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5672639621083705154" /></a>Across the river in the shadow of the imposing Basilica of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, <span style="font-weight:bold;">Frýdek's old town</span> does a better job of shrugging off the surrounding urban grimness. No doubt it's helped by its position atop a relatively steep-sided hill and the loosely connected ring of parks that cushion the impact of the communist-era architects. The imposing chateau that stands over the western end of Frýdek's slightly sloping rectangular square is open to the public six days a week and the courtyards and formal park are free of charge.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5O_DdVfvvX0LuBWkH_Ry_PdEDjgPFTT903yscnmOQA8MMhvE_e00w7vR_akjr99z7wEpJYZMC0FeARc8p8w_tF5ssxrtIctdmEM7VmK2-HIt6GGwZnR5qhqLGXhDDxgGvky0EPMuRGb0/s1600/frydek2.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5O_DdVfvvX0LuBWkH_Ry_PdEDjgPFTT903yscnmOQA8MMhvE_e00w7vR_akjr99z7wEpJYZMC0FeARc8p8w_tF5ssxrtIctdmEM7VmK2-HIt6GGwZnR5qhqLGXhDDxgGvky0EPMuRGb0/s200/frydek2.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5672640232755612306" /></a>The rest of the Frýdek square is lined by two, three and four storey townhouses in varying architectural styles, and they seem to house the best of the city's best cafes, restaurants, <a href="http://www.hotelscombined.com/City/Frydek_Mistek.htm?a_aid=11463">penzions</a> and shops. My particular favourite is the <a href="http://www.dobracajovnafm.cz/">Frýdek-Místek teahouse</a> (at Hluboká 64).<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinKgHSRz8zSN_Ad1KHjs7_FgEkzfklDQi37W0snssjtsuPADKDolEINN8i_b5Q8IzS7rZcWuUfUcNTvez6cCOKDJElz9iPYgDm7-RNEeIqcn3JtEEJlhtAwgV2CmgHRRGZWxcYiiuzPvs/s1600/trip18.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinKgHSRz8zSN_Ad1KHjs7_FgEkzfklDQi37W0snssjtsuPADKDolEINN8i_b5Q8IzS7rZcWuUfUcNTvez6cCOKDJElz9iPYgDm7-RNEeIqcn3JtEEJlhtAwgV2CmgHRRGZWxcYiiuzPvs/s200/trip18.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5672640510664331650" /></a>If you're not familiar with teahouses, they're inspired by the orient, offer 100 types of tea from across the world and there's at least one in every decent sized town in the Czech republic. I'm not sure what makes the Frýdek one so special but everyone I've taken there seems to agree it has a certain something. It's long been <span style="font-weight:bold;">my favourite teahouse</span> but if anyone thinks they've been to a better one, please post the address in the comments below because I'd love to check it out.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/pokmNjUB9TM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>7Captain Oddsockshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04171705425795102480noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4319986134869180964.post-34720296286933466982011-11-04T10:49:00.000+01:002011-11-04T10:49:00.079+01:00Where the Czech...? #158<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA3kubGXK-4zQGPPFzuFdvWVdi5ENjHFCexDtVMqTDD9-L1yfI8evAifzruvXM5yIfUeTWKlzAuR4G_kXJ4mhIZgyKJSU_y5143-QG_CmKx0l6L3VGxUgiOuLENRuYgkjrwynd8yy4gJc/s1600/whereczech157.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 319px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA3kubGXK-4zQGPPFzuFdvWVdi5ENjHFCexDtVMqTDD9-L1yfI8evAifzruvXM5yIfUeTWKlzAuR4G_kXJ4mhIZgyKJSU_y5143-QG_CmKx0l6L3VGxUgiOuLENRuYgkjrwynd8yy4gJc/s400/whereczech157.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662262301272196434" /></a>Who recognises this?Captain Oddsockshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04171705425795102480noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4319986134869180964.post-35957316503135824122011-10-28T10:11:00.002+02:002011-10-28T10:12:38.106+02:00Where the Czech...? #157<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaTtVJXxg6fYDbtfAtDWppscu6wDZY6i271n2h0IHZccLav5hDzXNiwAsJqzvtlNSp1073Pd7Mqlio6_g52gf9o1zPuZw53-Ayc8cujfaq1uEoGaq5ogpMt3zT0OhbZM7UOlfcU6ARCPM/s1600/whereczech1588.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaTtVJXxg6fYDbtfAtDWppscu6wDZY6i271n2h0IHZccLav5hDzXNiwAsJqzvtlNSp1073Pd7Mqlio6_g52gf9o1zPuZw53-Ayc8cujfaq1uEoGaq5ogpMt3zT0OhbZM7UOlfcU6ARCPM/s400/whereczech1588.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5668452873609548610" /></a>Who can work out or guess where this is?Captain Oddsockshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04171705425795102480noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4319986134869180964.post-38342015807944511592011-10-21T13:46:00.000+02:002011-10-21T13:46:00.594+02:00Where the Czech...? #156<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUofQFf2QYDSBgMCd2BGz-7kCmpxryQtXFOG3k9aosxFUu2q7Ov2D_xZ57hBxE-ZIqx8H8kzdOl_OSoKKsdu3GR0Yl8KPZfNMOiuK3B_ApaeGO6ODddjYAz9lt1BxcEGLHdNHYkr9AoWc/s1600/whereczech156.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUofQFf2QYDSBgMCd2BGz-7kCmpxryQtXFOG3k9aosxFUu2q7Ov2D_xZ57hBxE-ZIqx8H8kzdOl_OSoKKsdu3GR0Yl8KPZfNMOiuK3B_ApaeGO6ODddjYAz9lt1BxcEGLHdNHYkr9AoWc/s400/whereczech156.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662261689595963970" /></a>This is a tough one. Does anybody know where it is?Captain Oddsockshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04171705425795102480noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4319986134869180964.post-55730905597864398552011-10-18T17:49:00.016+02:002011-10-19T09:43:32.957+02:00Hats off to Nový Jičín<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiicVdhc_72hNM4orOOgJKhyphenhyphenTEoUEbPmRBAl4V6-RXXZWt-P62npUsGceoF17fUjYPFUyliBcUB-S_EE6VW1O60enlBf2Z3xeDwZKtqSVxj3y48ZJjgG48pYSarqyzKDvu3UTa-ltwpsh8/s1600/njic1.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiicVdhc_72hNM4orOOgJKhyphenhyphenTEoUEbPmRBAl4V6-RXXZWt-P62npUsGceoF17fUjYPFUyliBcUB-S_EE6VW1O60enlBf2Z3xeDwZKtqSVxj3y48ZJjgG48pYSarqyzKDvu3UTa-ltwpsh8/s400/njic1.jpg" border="0" alt="Novy Jicin backstreet with the tower of the church of the assumption" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5664868883463588482" /></a><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOBJ8IASmsQll9B09wYanMP-Pzo-hSDh-tqZGVASrDtCm4ywhjw95ZhEwMrTo2zDsxQ3m7v3Ms3zP-fXu3vaOyzS2A5Tjs8upG837aeLUyg4kpljaFNK_F4BO8ewViKXpqJEOugRFMv7Q/s200/njic5.jpg" style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" border="0" alt="Main square of Novy Jicin" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5664868465943415842" />The main central square of <b>Nový Jičín</b> is one of the Czech Republic's most attractive. It's almost an equal-sided square and the two or three storey townhouses that line its edge have colourful facades and covered arcades that create an unbroken walkway around the entire perimeter. Not a single building looks out of place and towers of the town hall and the church of the holy trinity add an extra pinch of architectural drama.<br /><br /><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1X-DEVjtWI6GpS3DMCeWjgXPnuDl0uMC9NfiNWsy0iF11lM5JOD2px0FyxQqYviLmkS7ZMLQPybOA83oMK8HoQGz_h8KzeX8lcI34gTlK9wxcq8y5hyphenhyphenN1kToMYmw33bDvq5HSdQMTCj4/s200/njic3.jpg" style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" border="0" alt="House of the white angel in Novy Jicin" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5664867653650500786" />Two of the nicest houses on the square are both towards the corner near the Church of the Assumption. The yellow and white one with the balcony on each floor was originally the town's post office but is now used as shops, a cultural centre and on the top floor an excellent little cafe with seating inside or overlooking the square from the flower covered balcony. Nearby, the sky blue House of the White Angel has the most elaborately decorated of all the street frontages and has served as the town's pharmacy since the early 1700's.<br /><br /><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCFH5tj5yDT6BeY8aylwFYWDbOp2vYtseJoP5st50FQUYYBWmbjn-ctcEXOurI4VPQBR4isOGrnuroyOamCtwnhCImjLVP70m6OqsIfatbkcy3tAW1r40TgKRlz0exEY3CsSjvQen0SgI/s200/njic4.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5664867819956031106" style="float: right; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px; " />The plague column in the middle of the square has been recently restored and in front of it stands a small fountain with two dancing characters dressed in the typical German costume of the region. Nový Jičín was a <a href="http://captainoddsocks.blogspot.com/2009/05/sudetenland-sudeten-german-czech.html">Sudeten</a> German town and if you meet ten locals, you'll probably hear ten different explanations for the figures on the fountain. If you meet the same guy that I met while I was crouching down to photograph it you might even hear a conspiracy theory or two.<br /><br /><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrEsTmemdgerQ_mKRZfBJI0D7H8VichTAVXh8FESOLpr5SHEE_FuYsw1RmGDu1gvPeUruEbqQNYQe1jK2kX6aW6LufR4J9loMlKQRFv4IyB7jTVrUgpffahyYm2tZv_c-la9MlRQ2bQJU/s200/njic2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5664868019432714882" style="float: left; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px; " />Away to one side of the plague column and the dancing German settlers is a new statue of St Nicholas gazing across towards the church tower. Near his feet lays a large bowl shaped fountain and surrounding it are three small sculptures of apples. I've no idea what they represent but they're cool. I also quite liked the modern coloured lights that play unobtrusively on some the historic buildings after dusk.<br /><br /><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHPCC2POzt4PDSTKvIEu733PR3rauemu_Zlw6np59hink7JalIqKWhSWlPDKrIYvQTgmHVfF8FxJgBrlc3UuTaC139mS47NovaD-0zjOUy2eTt9l0mQHxcvI7nHcL80k_H00kFUJNvDA0/s200/njic6.jpg" border="0" alt="Novy Jicin chateau-home of the hat museum" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5664868602208675378" style="float: right; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px; " />Just off the square the renaissance chateau houses the museum of hats and millinery. Nový Jičín has a centuries long tradition of hatmaking (since at least the early 1600's) including the opening of the <a href="http://www.tonak.cz/">TONAK</a> workshops in 1799. Anyone with the slightest interest in vintage clothing absolutely must pay the museum a visit. Darling.<br /><br /><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcXCBEn6PGxdZdMTPPSmlMgsgOSEdx_Vj2Y86ssjXFU6RWX3EhBAqWG6rTN1bNKKq4-ctrTKXBYMwMUO_UYxTY96GzCWy17tfBc0Iqj2ciA3tU_1TgcQVWBDd5RD5XhM8QAbVACBA6in4/s200/whereczech153.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5664869165133075042" style="float: left; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px; " />With good transport links and good range of accommodation for all budgets, Nový Jičín is well worth considering as a base while you're exploring the countryside between <a href="http://captainoddsocks.blogspot.com/search/label/Olomouc">Olomouc</a> and <a href="http://captainoddsocks.blogspot.com/2007/10/born-under-black-star.html">Ostrava</a>. Pretty little <a href="http://www.igougo.com/story-s1225583-Olomouc-Trucks_Freud_and_the_Gnomes_of_Stramberk.html">Štramberk</a> is just a few kilometres away, as is <a href="http://www.igougo.com/story-s1225583-Olomouc-Trucks_Freud_and_the_Gnomes_of_Stramberk.html">Kopřivnice</a> (and its Tatra automobile museum), <a href="http://www.pribor.cz/www/cz/freuds-museum-pribor/">Příbor</a> (Sigmund Freud's home town) and the moody ruins of Starý Jičín castle.<div><br /><b><a href="http://www.hotelscombined.com/City/Novy_Jicin.htm?a_aid=11463">Accommodation in Nový Jičín</a><br /><a href="http://icnj.cz/tema/tema.phtml?id=7340&lng=2">Nový Jičín official tourist information</a></b></div>Captain Oddsockshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04171705425795102480noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4319986134869180964.post-76100707348068782702011-10-14T05:44:00.000+02:002011-10-14T05:44:00.742+02:00Where the Czech...? #155<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCcT2PZCFkoY93D_u0tpaUJLcONjO91pSf5AcUHfUaKPzUa4H1wE0lRdyf_RpDIcWhAMWewjAB7vWsI7-3HmaY3yxAgfWkr8P7lZgdVpaJ3L2s5rY-kFmGTmojPgh7AgsY-5Y8zvvNIG0/s1600/whereczech155.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCcT2PZCFkoY93D_u0tpaUJLcONjO91pSf5AcUHfUaKPzUa4H1wE0lRdyf_RpDIcWhAMWewjAB7vWsI7-3HmaY3yxAgfWkr8P7lZgdVpaJ3L2s5rY-kFmGTmojPgh7AgsY-5Y8zvvNIG0/s400/whereczech155.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662261213209208130" /></a><div>Who recognises this pretty town square?</div>Captain Oddsockshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04171705425795102480noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4319986134869180964.post-51579729580172029462011-10-11T16:18:00.002+02:002011-10-11T17:30:30.498+02:00Trying to like Ústí<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcfLq3wOGtN3j7huU3AzCfe1Npqz5RCKzQjBYp3XC7sq8JQjMBe5ZcrpooNeG3kMaZza68eKr20zU9hJHoPvCaIIE2008lnsvxKhfw5UpmnhaI0K3_3tdjWEWJFJMq4wBludAd407b3vY/s1600/ustipink.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcfLq3wOGtN3j7huU3AzCfe1Npqz5RCKzQjBYp3XC7sq8JQjMBe5ZcrpooNeG3kMaZza68eKr20zU9hJHoPvCaIIE2008lnsvxKhfw5UpmnhaI0K3_3tdjWEWJFJMq4wBludAd407b3vY/s400/ustipink.jpg" border="0" alt="Usti nad Labem czech republic" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662254538209740594" /></a><br />Among the rounded hills of the North Bohemian highlands about 80km north of Prague, the city of Ústí nad Labem lies in the valley of the mighty Labe River where the smaller river Bílina joins it on the long journey towards the North Sea.<br /><br /><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6O8K9tTxNmEZM35Xnwy_XSEOdrRDuLYX63TrjmFKMAEbmuJ_AlRNWQH4LMB-XHFT_deEn5FOP5DtCCW8ZZODhcoEvSUTkXTbrQT_EOTzfjpo9TsAlhZEcuonkg18SLKbwqQeOubvwwGo/s200/usti1.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662249707664506034" style="float: right; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 139px; " />It may sound like a lovely setting for a city, but Ústí has a reputation as being not a very nice place to visit. And as you approach, it’s easy to see why. No matter from the north or south or by train from the west along the Bílina valley, huge industrial and manufacturing zones litter the skyline, hillsides and riverbanks with smoke stacks, silos, conveyor belts and docking cranes.<br /><br /><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZl_0BUv-DjPKj5-QDZK956ZY-0GkA6fmkXev5l8FIcCd0d5tXAttiL5Qyni_nUVPGOvl3zm76uN1QUE1oaQS5iO76yiEC1aN2JlTa3F1pS6lbMC7weNTnvPqr1s0v4EP_xzMDk6OAUcc/s200/ubridge.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662253034618493490" style="float: left; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 151px; height: 200px; " />Poor Ústí can’t even rely on the saving grace of many riverside cities, their bridges, for a bit of architectural interest or romance. The southernmost of Ústí’s three river crossings is a flat Meccano-like span and the middle bridge with the arched top is little better. Despite its brutal modern design, the northernmost bridge is the most striking of the three. Two high sharp-edged pillars of reinforced concrete rise asymmetrically from the river’s eastern bank and from those, steel cables as thick as a man’s leg fan out to evenly spaced points across the span like the web of a monstrous mechanical spider or one of those string and pin wall hangings your crafty aunt used to make back in the 1970’s.<br /><br />The old centre of Ústí roughly keeps the original layout of the customs settlement that grew beside the river between the 10th and 13th centuries, but apart from the two churches, there’s little remaining of historic architectural interest. On the main square alone there are five modern buildings of six stories or more. Of them the only one that really displays any architectural grace is the Česká Spořitelna building with its considered proportions and detailed relief work around the entrances.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdNLyjO7_om1w4VulLUrc-O9Ss949CT0d2gerWFo00Zl8pHOmSfrwoj0dJAOvMwMxByzLJPBHsk9qPxTTymz0AOHOyALF-h4qSo_jRu39NQMQAEHYwqsjjpS1i8l0TBrip4PpIg7oHVyA/s1600/ustipink.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA6Cu469eM9iUb4RGyGkBu3YDc-v1_Cl73D6329BdnIcMfJ03E4B-Fhyphenhyphen4O_WX7hbQljZCubRFdfQcgyOv_pA5_JOxDCpDSjQjbWR5gjnIT4rcAoziKXQF_VZYu1WbAc3tV7BfJn7uLac0/s200/usti2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662250156202311298" style="float: right; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 154px; height: 200px; " /></a>There’s also an interesting mosaic column, presumably from the communist era, that scales the height of the bronze-windowed Magistrát Města building, but when I visited in October 2008 it appeared soon to disappear behind whatever the cranes and concrete trucks were constructing behind the barricades in that corner of the square.<br /><br />The worst of the buildings is the 13 storey bright blue Interhotel Bohemia. As if being 13 floors high and bright but grimy blue weren’t enough, it also has large illuminated signs proclaiming Casino Non-stop and a flashing and beeping electronic billboard that blasts out across the main part of the square.<br /><br />With so many Czech cities and towns talking such good care of their historic centres, how did Ústí manage to become such an eyesore? Grim European cities tend to fall into one of two categories; industrial or war-damaged. Ústí falls into both.<br /><br />When the industrial revolution began to replace traditional manual labour with machines and factories in the 18th and 19th centuries, Ústí found itself with all the prerequisites for transformation into an industrial and manufacturing centre; The surrounding hills are laced with rich deposits of brown coal which was a convenient source of energy and the wide and easily navigable river Labe at its feet provided Ústí with an efficient means of transport.<br /><br /><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfoQjEI0Y7Dd2HxvU0ksD2_sA8p1YI2G6JqAFN9ARSbxb0RYkn6JLXZWW_Sk-JkgQbvV5f7u_jmRWkPMqRaU8mHQlEkS5FqkGyk6Zr0hU9BDeZEySYWsGnjo8PNwSIUB-LQvxXSX37z18/s200/setuza.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662253090917330098" style="float: left; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 151px; " />Two large ports were built on the left bank of the Labe, a shipbuilding factory soon followed and not only did Ústí mine and ship coal, coal powered factories were built nearby to manufacture goods close to the source of their energy.<br /><br />Today the Setuza industrial area is the backdrop for any view across the river from the centre of Ústí and slightly west of the centre along the valley of the Bílina River, is another industrial area the size of a small city. The main resident here is <a href="http://www.spolchemie.cz/">Spolchemie a.s</a>. They manufacture chemicals, glues and other substances for use in the building, plastics and pharmaceutical industries.<br /><br />On top of 100 gloomy years of coal mining and heavy industry, Ústí suffered more than most Czech cities during the Nazi occupation from 1938-45. In the mid 1930’s there had been a sizable Jewish community in Ústí nad Labem including prominent business families the Petscheks and the Weinmanns. Both families managed to emigrate before Ústí was, along with the rest of the Sudetenland, fell into Mr Hitler’s control in October 1938. The Petschek villa was occupied by the Gestapo then the Communist Party and is now an art school.<br /><br /><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBt0zJh_f_35HaN-Zo4fVG6PZvENd9KBE9-c9tRwf1MdkmO1b_QNpmUNOv-rAYi5oY8cZKJae9aGXcWtS5UmAvJZ-lDRyq2NqmRbbIHV096yhy7iygrnD_WG4sSYhbvMLkOrkXg5k9a7k/s200/usti5.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662250531916156658" style="float: right; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px; " />Ústí’s Jewish quarter just west of the city centre was completely destroyed during the war and the land is now part of the Spolchemie industrial zone. No trace remains of The Ústí synagogue, which was burnt to the ground at the end of 1938 and the former hillside Jewish cemetery is now the city park. The headstones that couldn’t be sold or otherwise used were laid flat and covered with earth and there they remain, the Cemetery remembered only by a monument in the form of a huge stone Star of David half buried in the soil at the lowest corner of the park.<br /><br />The worst blows to Ústí came towards the end of WWII. A section of the Berlin to Prague Railway had been laid through in the 1870’s and with its high-capacity ports Ústí was one of the busiest and most important transport hubs in central Europe. With the German Army transporting huge numbers of troops through Ústí and making use of the extensive manufacturing hardware to produce arms it was an obvious target for Allied bombing raids.<br /><br />The allies first bombed Ústí in December 1944, but the most destructive raids were in April the following year. In two raids, the 8th squadron of the American air force destroying almost a quarter of the city’s buildings. Both historic churches were damaged and at least 512 people lost their lives. The majority of the German troops managed to survive the bombing in air raid shelters; most of the known victims were local residents, German civilians retreating before the approaching eastern front, or prisoners of war including French, Czech and Slovakian resistance fighters and captive soldiers of the soviet red army.<br /><br /><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI7AH6ZZRwXKxBtogxFk6rjmdQabywvR3aEPV-fJiEAdb5y7H4mKBWw4-OqIk_fQ35PBz0FxgZ5SkTe2YSvLTgqVl9_okYeqprE6KJSRTzBuPJVPx5R9dPXUTAtY8cIgnNq296wJEjvx8/s200/usti6.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662254846629620994" style="float: left; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 157px; height: 200px; " />Especially tragic was that for those 512 lives and 2137 buildings destroyed, the Allied forces gained almost nothing. The Wehrmacht was able to repair the railway junction to resume full transport of troops and supplies to the eastern front through Ústí within a matter of hours, and the manufacture of weapons and ammunition was unaffected.<br /><br />Tragically the bombing raids weren’t the only unnecessary mass loss of innocent lives in Ústí that year. Czechoslovakia’s ethnic German minority was Hitler’s main excuse for his invasion, and many of those ‘liberated’ Sudeten Germans enthusiastically became enthusiastic Nazi supporters and collaborators.<br /><br />Immediately following the war, the understandably anti-German feeling in Czech society, and the gradual revelation of the full scale of the crimes of the holocaust made it seem impossible that the two nationalities could ever again live peacefully side by side in a single society. The transfer of ethnic Germans to Germany and Austria seemed the only conceivable solution and was approved by the Allied powers at the Potsdam conference in August 1945.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdNLyjO7_om1w4VulLUrc-O9Ss949CT0d2gerWFo00Zl8pHOmSfrwoj0dJAOvMwMxByzLJPBHsk9qPxTTymz0AOHOyALF-h4qSo_jRu39NQMQAEHYwqsjjpS1i8l0TBrip4PpIg7oHVyA/s1600/ustipink.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil5DtptXmR4V0BufUtyKA6AWabl2IaBZHJsO2Yvi_IW3PtKl5jdMwmvCORHIjvFglPrL9utWd0jHKlBZSZ-JO5MGVMcsuuQkkFLb95BPrZ4zk_ltnZDqrurXM9RDimQiXXOQisbhXoio0/s200/usti3.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662251274771760578" style="float: right; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 155px; height: 200px; " /></a>Before the officially approved population transfer began though were a series of events collectively known as the wild expulsion. Groups of armed Czechs took the law into their own hands and violently forced their German neighbours from their homes, towns and the country. The worst incidents were the Brno death march and the massacres at Postoloprty, Švédská Šance (near Přerov) and Ústí nad Labem.<br /><br />On the afternoon of 31 June 1945 a group of ethnic Germans finished work at the Setuza factory (from Severočeské Tukové Závody-the elegantly named North Bohemian Fat Works) in Ústí nad Labem, and set out to walk home across the middle of Ústí’s three bridges. They met a group of Czechs, words were exchanged and it led to a violent struggle in which as many as 100 of the Germans were thrown from the bridge and lost their lives in the waters of the Labe River below. The custodian of the Ústí museum who first told me the story said that even children and babies in prams were thrown to their deaths.<br /><br /><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr1fhFZlqabhm-pXvWpf6CIsu3-LGan2nUaMAfMRbOz5BtxeXUzShgFTBv6E2MY__ck0UcjiIzOCN-ReENxkmFjFpMp6IgolNrOa7ZxfC8o6yzB69gx0WCXxjNMJUXiegzu2Bp5IA6PEk/s200/usti4.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662251552714042706" style="float: left; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 156px; " />The Ústí massacre is not a very well known event and seems to have been so thoroughly covered up during the communist era that many Czechs have never heard of it. If you’re ever in Ústí though, take a walk across the bridge on the downstream footpath and out near the middle you'll find a small plaque with the words “In memory of the victims of the violence on 31.7.1945”.<br /><br />As you lean over the railing and think about the distance to the water’s surface, spare a moment to be grateful that the human race has matured and progressed to the point that mob violence based on a victim’s ethnicity couldn't...uh, never mind.Captain Oddsockshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04171705425795102480noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4319986134869180964.post-56855273610902240572011-07-01T16:16:00.000+02:002011-07-01T16:16:00.474+02:00Where the Czech...? #154<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhivh1h7wM1-0m11r3iLrDY31rRSwy3nzQ1dXn44oTpL0Gkb1Xyw1hyphenhyphenrdnC0uV4NsUuMNzkpmoU_M4PdrhBLxXG20A33SC6Kuq9TvxxfmcdvfJtu80VjDYQC_Vy2tZWj5gCMnJvenAFdtE/s1600/whereczech1544.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 306px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhivh1h7wM1-0m11r3iLrDY31rRSwy3nzQ1dXn44oTpL0Gkb1Xyw1hyphenhyphenrdnC0uV4NsUuMNzkpmoU_M4PdrhBLxXG20A33SC6Kuq9TvxxfmcdvfJtu80VjDYQC_Vy2tZWj5gCMnJvenAFdtE/s400/whereczech1544.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5624279763385558866" border="0" /></a>Does anybody recognise this main square?Captain Oddsockshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04171705425795102480noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4319986134869180964.post-66426043546794666092011-06-25T23:04:00.000+02:002011-06-25T23:05:02.099+02:00Where the Czech...? #153<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTVqVLQT5_g0WpOXSHx56LlhU2HWsOhHOBi8rwyI5IH8ujIgUl4OPwOx_kkK3VxXnYuqNn84YN5B6xkTHSExgdfhLHWxQr5-0m_PsDD7yPvlC2S9qMH9NjECPX3P618ExCp-nf0WLlHTE/s1600/whereczech153.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTVqVLQT5_g0WpOXSHx56LlhU2HWsOhHOBi8rwyI5IH8ujIgUl4OPwOx_kkK3VxXnYuqNn84YN5B6xkTHSExgdfhLHWxQr5-0m_PsDD7yPvlC2S9qMH9NjECPX3P618ExCp-nf0WLlHTE/s400/whereczech153.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5622266297111241138" border="0" /></a>Who knows where this is?Captain Oddsockshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04171705425795102480noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4319986134869180964.post-61653945508128354082011-06-17T09:42:00.002+02:002011-06-17T09:43:48.348+02:00Where the Czech...? #152<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisJ3KAwug70MMdugMYrtMKz8p1y9xnMnQN9Adh-D1sBirODp1UpcCt5P3W5Tv1J9yFW_5H8HcKPnyskDuNGc8JlcEPABFOShDPnG8PjdCeyhCpSErw4to9BQDMAlEtKxifJV0O1JduELQ/s1600/whereczech200.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisJ3KAwug70MMdugMYrtMKz8p1y9xnMnQN9Adh-D1sBirODp1UpcCt5P3W5Tv1J9yFW_5H8HcKPnyskDuNGc8JlcEPABFOShDPnG8PjdCeyhCpSErw4to9BQDMAlEtKxifJV0O1JduELQ/s400/whereczech200.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5619091104447196370" border="0" /></a>Who recognises this town's main square?Captain Oddsockshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04171705425795102480noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4319986134869180964.post-22508238577462895412011-04-10T22:06:00.032+02:002011-04-12T21:02:34.281+02:00Another cycle trip<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3tjeKeUrPvzc8hS9BmchB_117wI3sW0qgRWJbBb51UYchPUxqkagyV8IJLukwdFTqJ92giEcggHOkEQEaLhJgzvDZZ_BdsHOkfTnj4nI9ovf-8tuicm-BgDzcrO_Akfd1E0RyAW4J-ck/s1600/cyclist.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 301px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3tjeKeUrPvzc8hS9BmchB_117wI3sW0qgRWJbBb51UYchPUxqkagyV8IJLukwdFTqJ92giEcggHOkEQEaLhJgzvDZZ_BdsHOkfTnj4nI9ovf-8tuicm-BgDzcrO_Akfd1E0RyAW4J-ck/s400/cyclist.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5594772868475303490" border="0" /></a>If you meet an English speaking traveller who tells you they've done a week-long cycling tour in the Czech Republic, there's a pretty good chance (I'd guess at least 4 out of 5) that they rode either from <span style="font-weight: bold;">Mikulov to Český Krumlov</span> or from <span style="font-weight: bold;">Český Krumlov to Mikulov</span>. Which is fine, of course, but sometimes I answer questions on Lonely Planet's <a href="http://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/forum.jspa?forumID=15&keywordid=114">Thorn Tree forum</a> and when one came up recently I found myself with hesitations about recommending the Mikulov-Krumlov shuffle.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">South Moravia</span> is probably my favourite region in the country and <span style="font-weight: bold;">South Bohemia</span> is definitely in the top three good-looking regions in the room, but I just wonder if this route really deserves four times as much attention and patronage as the rest of the cycle routes in the country put together. My main concern is that, with the exception of Znojmo, all the other towns might start to look a bit the same.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Znojmo</span> has around 35000 inhabitants, medieval catacombs, and a variety of Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance architecture; but <span style="font-weight: bold;">Mikulov, Slavonice, Telč, Jindřichův Hradec, Třeboň and Český Krumlov</span> are all smallish towns (maximum 20000 people) dominated by the renaissance architecture of the 16th century (two storeys plus attic, pastel or sgraffito facades, arcade walkways, and dating from 1500-1620). Unless you really have a specific interest in the variations and intricacies of Central European renaissance architecture (I must admit that applies to me) wouldn't this route be a bit like going to a smorgasbord dinner and having six helpings of the same dish?<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYXbisKLL8t5ljVxbVTHPPLS-XZViLqnAFTrJUY2EtkaffDXZSMdI1W7exxAVKblJeOpPoBnDsIGTfDb77dyWcqqJanC2NNw1ilW72CJ-nm7yn-fCK3qcnkPrV_AlMkXnUJSuM8IPcVOs/s1600/renaissancetowns.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 250px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYXbisKLL8t5ljVxbVTHPPLS-XZViLqnAFTrJUY2EtkaffDXZSMdI1W7exxAVKblJeOpPoBnDsIGTfDb77dyWcqqJanC2NNw1ilW72CJ-nm7yn-fCK3qcnkPrV_AlMkXnUJSuM8IPcVOs/s400/renaissancetowns.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5594771491567448450" border="0" /></a>In the case of the fellow that asked the original question, (lets call him Ben) I kind of thought Mikulov to Krumlov would be OK, but he expressed interest in hearing any other suggestions I might have and because I'm intending to finish my round the country ride soon, I thought it might be a good exercise to plan an itinerary a bit and see if it's any use to him or anyone else.<br /><br />Ben was thinking of beginning in Mikulov and my last ride finished in Mutěnice near Hodonín, but for the purposes of this we might split the difference and start in Břeclav. Ben has a week and I have more than a month, so he'd have to skip some of the things I'd visit and I'd be able to devote more time to each place.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Břeclav</span></span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrDHPZjJEtNPIvBFW3hBl8J7M7SW83BwC43KyhhzkuI4DgcCmoolDsRAclNQSHDh9VikTBTKBHmlvdtVG2-1dMl9GBYxbSgS4dixuqIHo_x2X9cNVSl4UrY3Wg2kdoiFOAbd566GAL7QQ/s1600/breclav.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrDHPZjJEtNPIvBFW3hBl8J7M7SW83BwC43KyhhzkuI4DgcCmoolDsRAclNQSHDh9VikTBTKBHmlvdtVG2-1dMl9GBYxbSgS4dixuqIHo_x2X9cNVSl4UrY3Wg2kdoiFOAbd566GAL7QQ/s200/breclav.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5594739204791566834" border="0" /></a>Břeclav is a good place to start because it has excellent rail connections and a well-equipped train station. Bombed in World War II, it's now a fairly unattractive town, but there is a chateau that was built to look like a partly ruined medieval castle during the romantic 19th century. Behind the chateau, cycle trail #43 heads off through the Dyje natural park towards Lednice chateau.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >Lednice-Valtice area</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8gsGy5YT7MyjW__x28sZRTuBqNXjAEMPADqM0FKlA8zyHCYTA7TcQSZzvHaocM-zRAhN1Y-DhmeGd0bnegeDrJFImTVZgS4jraMTPDUmGcOo6EAVa5LO993FCWg8kI9SFv12B_v1GqrQ/s1600/whereczech116.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 148px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8gsGy5YT7MyjW__x28sZRTuBqNXjAEMPADqM0FKlA8zyHCYTA7TcQSZzvHaocM-zRAhN1Y-DhmeGd0bnegeDrJFImTVZgS4jraMTPDUmGcOo6EAVa5LO993FCWg8kI9SFv12B_v1GqrQ/s200/whereczech116.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5594741772115307538" border="0" /></a>The Lednice-Valtice area is 2 square kilometres of landscaped countryside and world heritage architecture from the 19th century. The highlights are another mock ruined castle hunting lodge called Janův Hrad, the minaret designed by Josef Hardtmuth (better known abroad for his pencils), the Lednice chateau and greenhouse and the chateau and Jesuit church in Valtice. I've done this ride a few time and i like to follow trail 41 out of Lednice, then turn off along the lake to visit Hlohovec castle, which marks the old border between Moravia and Austria. From there it's up and over a vineyard-covered hill and down into Valtice. Valtice's wine cellars are a great opportunity to sample the local drop, but bear in mind that cyclists should technically have a 0.0 blood-alcohol-content. From Valtice there are minor country roads back to Břeclav or sandy trails through the forest and past the rendezvous and monuments.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >Ruins of the Great Moravian Empire</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7k6Rlacg603F0vaf58-jBBLfSvsu4EU8VbpZH5g4GwgBVZLC6ja8qWwIrnBz6HoPygv6k-b2LzvKtHlYNbmK-KBq85Kn1-cjocxidON7SMp_knhhMbTOYFPHoeoK2kLuAqsae5nXurG8/s1600/whereczech144.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7k6Rlacg603F0vaf58-jBBLfSvsu4EU8VbpZH5g4GwgBVZLC6ja8qWwIrnBz6HoPygv6k-b2LzvKtHlYNbmK-KBq85Kn1-cjocxidON7SMp_knhhMbTOYFPHoeoK2kLuAqsae5nXurG8/s200/whereczech144.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5594739587791505282" border="0" /></a>Trail #43 south out of Břeclav leads to Pohansko, which is marked on all the Lednice-Valtice maps because of the Pohansko chateau. More interesting to me though is the nearby archaeological site and reconstruction of a small encampment from the Great Moravian Empire. The Empire was the first organised nation state of Slavic peoples but you hear very little about it because most information comes out of Prague and getting a proud Praguer to use 'Great' and 'Moravia' in the same breath is like getting blood from a a stone.<br /><br />Past Lanžhot, cycle trail 44 runs along the bank of the Morava river, and is a great opportunity to absorb what you learned at Pohansko, before delving into the centre of the great Moravian empire at Mikulčice. Actually no-one knows where the capital was, but the excavations at Mikulčice uncovered the largest cache of Great Moravian churches, graves, jewellery and ceramics ever found. It's likely to be the Czech Republic's next UNESCO-world heritage site.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Hodonín</span></span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMw18UJZf680bKA4TqfqCv44xNKehTmEKMJEKa68zbM1v9KP5b6JlGPopQFFkcKhtH3aVL140VS6YM1F2KzvhyphenhyphenRyugm_f_EmjapAFhY3Q1I7eFD6gX0UEC8XLH-zkknNl0Drjhux5qfMQ/s1600/whereczech151.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMw18UJZf680bKA4TqfqCv44xNKehTmEKMJEKa68zbM1v9KP5b6JlGPopQFFkcKhtH3aVL140VS6YM1F2KzvhyphenhyphenRyugm_f_EmjapAFhY3Q1I7eFD6gX0UEC8XLH-zkknNl0Drjhux5qfMQ/s200/whereczech151.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5594742297862326866" border="0" /></a>From there it's not far to Hodonín, which has an impressive main square church, and museums devoted to a) local boy and liberator president Tomas Garrigue Masaryk and b) South Moravia's oil industry. You didn't know they drilled for oil in South Moravia? Neither did I - I'm looking forward to visiting to find out more about it. From Hodonín, trail #47 leads along the river valley towards Strážnice, or we could shortcut through Slovakia and the pretty little town of Skalica.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >Strážnice</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheKRP_colSNB3mMZ__bQDCweB-kEaer9YcgU8_asScf6UPZK3H9HWznjz0Y76AlNFl8ss50sVU-U9oZz1E2BX_Avh8bFveOZSayAIV5g6DY5LOdWx6GKYHlSxsnvLFuHWiC4VnKr_ZdNA/s1600/petrov.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheKRP_colSNB3mMZ__bQDCweB-kEaer9YcgU8_asScf6UPZK3H9HWznjz0Y76AlNFl8ss50sVU-U9oZz1E2BX_Avh8bFveOZSayAIV5g6DY5LOdWx6GKYHlSxsnvLFuHWiC4VnKr_ZdNA/s200/petrov.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5594739921158324258" border="0" /></a>Strážnice is best known for the huge folk festival that takes place every year in and for its skansen. A skansen is basically an outdoor museum; in this case with a collection of typical traditional South Moravian cottages, farmhouses and gardens. There's also a renaissance chateau that offers budget accommodation, a Jewish cemetery and a small port for boats navigating the Bata Canal.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Uherské Hradiště or Uherský Brod & Luhačovice</span></span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJzgjISQLeehK6XtzbZH-_4566ahxdkXGd2FzU2WPsZVR9w9wlV3RcVbP6IcOlU9_BKAE-4o7AVCjKUvSQIWvdIJsV_pHnO4CZMeRSjdQHsGyTmyabjtX_wpn3ZSKtteuY3cCNHk1Qfw4/s1600/uhhradiste.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJzgjISQLeehK6XtzbZH-_4566ahxdkXGd2FzU2WPsZVR9w9wlV3RcVbP6IcOlU9_BKAE-4o7AVCjKUvSQIWvdIJsV_pHnO4CZMeRSjdQHsGyTmyabjtX_wpn3ZSKtteuY3cCNHk1Qfw4/s200/uhhradiste.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5594741008916594706" border="0" /></a>Uherské Hradiště is the biggest town in the Moravské Slovácko region. If it were possible to single out the one Czech region that has best held on to its folk traditions and customs it would probably be Moravské Slovácko. There's a handful of wonderful old historic buildings in Uherské Hradiště, but the best way to use the town is as a base to get into the real Slovácko countryside.<br /><br />One good day long cycle trip is the loop to Buchlovice chateau ( home of the garlic festival) The imposing gothic Buchlov castle, Tupesy (ceramics workshop, gift centre and museum), Velehrad (pilgrimage church) and Modra (reconstructed huts, houses and church from the Great Moravian empire).<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi019ObkjwCVTVTbppsOCGqNY1ggJWu2OuDvNf9yD5FS_1pU-WG0aTrOUlsv6dwvvPcGCQquI_4waMujYMSvmEBBW6KMVM_Qd8qAiqwjEbemDNw63x_Iy-BJp0eyX8jOVrDzR-_gWrTyLU/s1600/luhacovice.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi019ObkjwCVTVTbppsOCGqNY1ggJWu2OuDvNf9yD5FS_1pU-WG0aTrOUlsv6dwvvPcGCQquI_4waMujYMSvmEBBW6KMVM_Qd8qAiqwjEbemDNw63x_Iy-BJp0eyX8jOVrDzR-_gWrTyLU/s200/luhacovice.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5594740143755908578" border="0" /></a>Uherský Brod is a relaxed town with a couple of very impressive churches and a good museum to the most famous local boy Jan Amoš Komenský, better known abroad as Comenius - the teacher of nations. Luhačovice is a spa town in a lovely forested setting with some of <a href="http://captainoddsocks.blogspot.com/2009/03/top-ten-10-of-czech-architecture.html">architect Dušan Jurkovic</a>'s best work. Personally I think all places mentioned above are worth visiting, but a cyclist pressed for time would probably ride from Strážnice to Zlín either along the river via Uh. Hradiště or up over the hills via Uh. Brod and Luhačovice.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >Zlín</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGqbTqZ4kW3Lr5ppFV-ZPZfhtYWDdkdzNKL1j9eNt427oiwQO1bcWNN5n1PpWUHhzwP-IhMyIC75ocMBTNhKHWG-Z8MpkqmuLrCJmSjgFp6I0O9jVfUJe8VoopahE93w0xjsMb-9QEXOM/s1600/zlin2.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGqbTqZ4kW3Lr5ppFV-ZPZfhtYWDdkdzNKL1j9eNt427oiwQO1bcWNN5n1PpWUHhzwP-IhMyIC75ocMBTNhKHWG-Z8MpkqmuLrCJmSjgFp6I0O9jVfUJe8VoopahE93w0xjsMb-9QEXOM/s200/zlin2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5594743019329714994" border="0" /></a>Home of Bata shoes. The innovative Bata factories, villas and shoe museum can all be visited and office block 21 is especially worthwhile for the rooftop terrace, the elevator office and the free exhibition on the eighth floor. The town chateau has good exhibition about the local film animation industry and the annual <a href="http://www.zlinfest.cz/en/">festival of children's film</a> happens each year at the end of May.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Vallašské Meziříčí and Rožnov pod radhoštěm</span></span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx6MiIefJm3pPS68Dsn1x9bT5Hvi0cZx-lXD1jFeWtclfKJ2A7fv04TL1MBWOGKuJUhhuwuMUfN8onLNah3IE3RoO1br_wDTmeyddTeAdXD2IqjdxF_oD1g2cJH69Qi8tkHK4K8eHp0tA/s1600/vlmez.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx6MiIefJm3pPS68Dsn1x9bT5Hvi0cZx-lXD1jFeWtclfKJ2A7fv04TL1MBWOGKuJUhhuwuMUfN8onLNah3IE3RoO1br_wDTmeyddTeAdXD2IqjdxF_oD1g2cJH69Qi8tkHK4K8eHp0tA/s200/vlmez.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5594740590213055762" border="0" /></a>In my experience, Wallachia (Vallašsko) is the Czech republic's friendliest region. Vallašské Meziříčí is its biggest town and the pleasant old square, cool bars and cafes and the inexpensive guesthouse right in the chateau make it a good place to base yourself for a few days. Check out one of the teahouses and the coffee shop in the upholstery school.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2cdxpitjI1pKynV33C7DRo25JXf_18EIQvX8B6PT7CSTCWGIxZFmilqExSnymZu8kvcEtaiiTZYVS-E8NdZsuiXRjeAcAbmlsQycPDc-Xx3OTJPidQfYUzAThlPC68hRzeTcXV_mQpak/s1600/roznov.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2cdxpitjI1pKynV33C7DRo25JXf_18EIQvX8B6PT7CSTCWGIxZFmilqExSnymZu8kvcEtaiiTZYVS-E8NdZsuiXRjeAcAbmlsQycPDc-Xx3OTJPidQfYUzAThlPC68hRzeTcXV_mQpak/s200/roznov.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5594740857847007666" border="0" /></a>The big attraction of Rožnov pod radhoštěm is its collection of traditional wooden buildings. In the early 20th century there were two brothers who bought any timber building they heard was going to be demolished and somehow got permission to restore and reassemble them in the Rožnov town park on the right bank of the river Bečva. There's a church, a mill, a post office, a couple of working pubs and traditional festivals or events almost every weekend from May through September.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Nový Jičín/Štramberk/Kopřivnice/Příbor/Hukvaldy</span></span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1UopOHq8shD98X4N9u0ZF6pbkeOIDbXhqLyz79nidPIRoIruMkaK6UWjdqQCJcdz8DV5PF3kT_FHtsKJpUZySO02BDby6IJWD0DwwUeYpyuvV0vibGqINbaIVQ5NhYP2XudbIueeFzbM/s1600/september20+049.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1UopOHq8shD98X4N9u0ZF6pbkeOIDbXhqLyz79nidPIRoIruMkaK6UWjdqQCJcdz8DV5PF3kT_FHtsKJpUZySO02BDby6IJWD0DwwUeYpyuvV0vibGqINbaIVQ5NhYP2XudbIueeFzbM/s200/september20+049.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5594743499218113554" border="0" /></a>Nový Jičín and the towns nearby have plenty to keep anyone interested for few days. Nový Jičín has one of the prettiest main squares in the country, the hat museum and Starý Jičín castle ruins just outside town. Štramberk has good collection of traditional wooden Wallachian houses, the remains of a hilltop castle lookout tower and an excellent microbrewery on the main square. Příbor is Sigmund Freud's birthplace and the family house is now open to the public. Kopřivnice has the wonderfully quirky Tatra car and truck museum and Hukvaldy castle ruins are worth visiting even if you miss the annual Janaček music festival. The #502 trail connects most of these destinations.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >Frýdek-Místek</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqycFsrgAgkYLpJHS7HMezw_3_14AoT4ie-7At5mkmfvOiOg12wYguE9n5dzX_Va8PxGtYhJ0pfYxp1WSNZ8017MpSw77r78sEOOiDftzWdcKkb8cL9tSoVMJ8tKpRfBTHjIvb8cQM0LU/s1600/fmteahoue.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqycFsrgAgkYLpJHS7HMezw_3_14AoT4ie-7At5mkmfvOiOg12wYguE9n5dzX_Va8PxGtYhJ0pfYxp1WSNZ8017MpSw77r78sEOOiDftzWdcKkb8cL9tSoVMJ8tKpRfBTHjIvb8cQM0LU/s200/fmteahoue.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5594744608823882050" border="0" /></a>I want to go back to Frýdek-Místek mostly because it has the best teahouse I've ever been to. Frýdek and Místek were originally two towns; Místek on the left, Moravian bank of the Ostravice river, and Frýdek across on the opposite bank in Silesia. The historic centre of Frýdek around the square and chateau is lovely and I'm looking forward to exploring Místek too when I go back with a bicycle.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Český Těšín</span></span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiao3PAPMECEEeSBlF0dz9hW8QOCm-JWO-eqQfsUL1MOJ7KfSwbkJZF5ofVWJpsYG9BeMpWKcO4NWZU00jaBmdX_IjnWqoE0EToDtCy2-rmwfOR0AhGYhaQ8uf8DfzO0GM_CHTyvxYiECA/s1600/ceskytesin.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiao3PAPMECEEeSBlF0dz9hW8QOCm-JWO-eqQfsUL1MOJ7KfSwbkJZF5ofVWJpsYG9BeMpWKcO4NWZU00jaBmdX_IjnWqoE0EToDtCy2-rmwfOR0AhGYhaQ8uf8DfzO0GM_CHTyvxYiECA/s200/ceskytesin.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5594746965393852210" border="0" /></a>Český Těšín is the Czech part of the town that found itself split in two when a new international border between Czechoslovakia and Poland was drawn was drawn along the Olše river in 1920. Czech Těšín was cut off from the historic centre of town, and Polish Těšín lost the important rail connections that were on the western side of the river. Another upheaval came in 1938 when Polish troops annexed Czech Těšín after the Munich betrayal. These days you can just walk down and across the bridge into the neighbouring country and nobody bats an eyelid.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Havířov</span></span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkub0CsgoYRQ9DUbdsXCZOxLDMB33NFUttsrAVa21nR8BKuIay0UYqQLGR_1EyzJtU51koD4nfjcKn2WoXzyw94KdgeH_-H1TUE22zYqJU8LsFz0qncToweNh9k0sn2T03Ns3c9LdW3b0/s1600/havirov.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkub0CsgoYRQ9DUbdsXCZOxLDMB33NFUttsrAVa21nR8BKuIay0UYqQLGR_1EyzJtU51koD4nfjcKn2WoXzyw94KdgeH_-H1TUE22zYqJU8LsFz0qncToweNh9k0sn2T03Ns3c9LdW3b0/s200/havirov.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5594745369789412898" border="0" /></a>You wont find Havířov mentioned in many guidebooks but it seems like a very interesting place. It's an industrial city built in the early 1950s in the style of socialist realism. In those early years the communist party was still dominated by courageous people who joined when it was a persecuted organization and I'm keen to see if I can find differences in their architecture compared to the monstrosities of the 1970s when party membership was a prerequisite for every ambitious and unscrupulous citizen interested in personal power. Even if I'm wrong about the difference in architecture, I think the extensive collection of social-realist public sculpture will make the visit worthwhile.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Ostrava</span></span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjhyiraKuMK8HO2Zr2S7y3jABu3R6vTy3I3iAIHZq2BRd5EAWWVWYm_aVYNLMa13IROJXN-TGx2Cn5r3ASoEZ_tw1WRGpEL1xz16-lj67ri3SSPrNfSz3SUIK4ErWPFYA8kgqNmL_INxQ/s1600/ostrava.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjhyiraKuMK8HO2Zr2S7y3jABu3R6vTy3I3iAIHZq2BRd5EAWWVWYm_aVYNLMa13IROJXN-TGx2Cn5r3ASoEZ_tw1WRGpEL1xz16-lj67ri3SSPrNfSz3SUIK4ErWPFYA8kgqNmL_INxQ/s200/ostrava.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5594747063955879426" border="0" /></a>3rd biggest city of the Czech republic and much-maligned as an ugly industrial sprawl populated by unemployed former miners. But ask anyone who has actually spent time there and the overwhelming response is that they really quite like it. The nightlife is famous but I also enjoyed the cafes, bookshops, the tour of the old steelworks and the museum of mining out in the northern suburbs. From <a href="http://captainoddsocks.blogspot.com/2007/10/born-under-black-star.html">Ostrava</a> there are good train connections to all major cities in the region and Ben would probably finish here, while I'd like to push on to Opava, Krnov and the Jesenik mountains on my way home to Olomouc.<br /><br />I've probably left this post a bit late to be useful to Ben, but I hope to cycle much of this route between about Mid may and Mid June this year. With tiny villages, towns and large industrial cities; everything from Great Moravian wooden cabins to social-realist reinforced concrete; forested hills, gentle flood plains; Moravian Slovak, Wallachian and Silesian culture and cuisine, it's going to be quite a trip.Captain Oddsockshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04171705425795102480noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4319986134869180964.post-51881450385513148092010-09-03T10:15:00.003+02:002010-09-03T10:18:07.842+02:00The last post<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihiS6e3PPc4GeRCr8Bw4g9agZYTs87RsmBG47-fao2L0EFLtX1zigSbDxL8LWR-yOPKiyqayrRXtoLeVcXNbHLhHiEsbKdANhNyfyNgxnfc7VSDRRBDeRWCqTCYXU-CfjnzdEnjOShXg0/s1600/whereczech152.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 293px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihiS6e3PPc4GeRCr8Bw4g9agZYTs87RsmBG47-fao2L0EFLtX1zigSbDxL8LWR-yOPKiyqayrRXtoLeVcXNbHLhHiEsbKdANhNyfyNgxnfc7VSDRRBDeRWCqTCYXU-CfjnzdEnjOShXg0/s400/whereczech152.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5512598138905573922" border="0" /></a><br />It's been a difficult decision, but I think <a href="http://captainoddsocks.blogspot.com/2010/06/mikulov.html">The Marvels of Mikulov</a> may have been the last real post on this blog. It's not that there aren't hundreds more interesting things to write about (I'll actually be cycling through the nicest part of the country for the next few weeks) but it's been a difficult 12 or 18 months and I feel I need to focus more of my time and energy on things that produce an income.<br /><br />The <span style="font-weight: bold;">plunder of the Slav Epic</span> was also quite a discouraging event that highlighted to me the pointlessness of spreading the word about the country's hidden gems if the best are going to be carted off to the capital anyway. I wonder if the bones from Kutná Hora will be next?<br /><br />The answer to <a href="http://captainoddsocks.blogspot.com/2010/08/where-czech-151.html">Where the Czech...? #151</a> is Hodonín on the banks of the Morava River where it becomes the international border with Slovakia. Liberator president <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tom%C3%A1%C5%A1_Garrigue_Masaryk">Tomáš Garrigue Masaryk</a> was born to a Moravian mother and Slovak father there in 1850. The wooden sculptures in <a href="http://captainoddsocks.blogspot.com/2010/06/where-czech-143.html"> Where the Czech...? #143</a> are part of a recreation of a fortified campsite at a Great Moravian Empire archeological site near Lanžhot, also in South Moravia.<br /><br />I've very much enjoyed meeting people like Mike, Scott and Marketa, Derek, Sherry and Nina through the blog and keeping up acquaintances with others like Brett and Jay. Hope to see you all again someday.<br /><br />Thanks for reading, take care of yourselves and bye for now, captain oddsocks.Captain Oddsockshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04171705425795102480noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4319986134869180964.post-69248229289107161552010-08-27T10:37:00.002+02:002010-08-27T10:37:00.592+02:00Where the Czech...? #151<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeISQgxQNfgXh9hndvYLVmV1eGaETT9iVVq-EYN_lGatok-F0u791kN14Yrd8_fY4oRUT-McLy3_JGIZlrwPfKxuJaLKwOfYw8831rczPj9k0NxG0Xb_DsJanJR5B6GDlCD4mFL5SzSzY/s1600/whereczech151.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeISQgxQNfgXh9hndvYLVmV1eGaETT9iVVq-EYN_lGatok-F0u791kN14Yrd8_fY4oRUT-McLy3_JGIZlrwPfKxuJaLKwOfYw8831rczPj9k0NxG0Xb_DsJanJR5B6GDlCD4mFL5SzSzY/s400/whereczech151.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5509450545021941442" border="0" /></a>Who knows which town centre these buildings are from?Captain Oddsockshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04171705425795102480noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4319986134869180964.post-22977204517669196102010-08-13T10:49:00.000+02:002010-08-14T10:50:38.413+02:00Where the Czech...? #150<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPBXHmxtzsXzOww_4copgD60EXwJzC73Zp_vuogFVN8wz_w3guoPmVhpjZF0fvllVmlenTnrC78R0jKUnnAOyvlVO7SWnal_P3Kroi9ThLzKBaB6xXLZPLVJqvE-yqOXSkBwInsfejJgk/s1600/whereczech150.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPBXHmxtzsXzOww_4copgD60EXwJzC73Zp_vuogFVN8wz_w3guoPmVhpjZF0fvllVmlenTnrC78R0jKUnnAOyvlVO7SWnal_P3Kroi9ThLzKBaB6xXLZPLVJqvE-yqOXSkBwInsfejJgk/s400/whereczech150.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5505185162930996210" border="0" /></a>Does anyone know where this building is and what's special about it?Captain Oddsockshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04171705425795102480noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4319986134869180964.post-41886476973387538682010-08-06T16:20:00.000+02:002010-08-06T16:21:22.345+02:00Where the Czech...? #149<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhstYS-Rb7cbw1y_OMD5xwdN0a_6Lskgb5kVOXT-wAATLFBAZ9iwciSsO3CIghPcGjZF6PmNTFcbYzAlBc9Cj2tFxOqMSjFKfWN-strl3eqUtQNyBEBgPFZZBwZi539pN_GLTI9e1RSlo/s1600/whereczech149.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 301px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhstYS-Rb7cbw1y_OMD5xwdN0a_6Lskgb5kVOXT-wAATLFBAZ9iwciSsO3CIghPcGjZF6PmNTFcbYzAlBc9Cj2tFxOqMSjFKfWN-strl3eqUtQNyBEBgPFZZBwZi539pN_GLTI9e1RSlo/s400/whereczech149.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5502301655154847698" border="0" /></a>Does anybody recognise this small South Moravian chateau?Captain Oddsockshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04171705425795102480noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4319986134869180964.post-41484197762713984762010-07-23T09:36:00.001+02:002010-07-23T09:37:52.869+02:00Where the Czech...? #148<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU2h5kCavjtHazseT8FJjJiQeDvIvDhGDfM2j9GUrPr3eYPoER9GZJ-OLgYiI6wVhZyBTRUFogt5mU6p1Yf4HMB8Ghd9pL1ByAsS7BPB7F84QQpOgVAGaC0zUTm6MYHqULmGIk7_RAgmQ/s1600/whereczech148.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU2h5kCavjtHazseT8FJjJiQeDvIvDhGDfM2j9GUrPr3eYPoER9GZJ-OLgYiI6wVhZyBTRUFogt5mU6p1Yf4HMB8Ghd9pL1ByAsS7BPB7F84QQpOgVAGaC0zUTm6MYHqULmGIk7_RAgmQ/s400/whereczech148.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5497002537533979346" border="0" /></a>Who knows what and where this building is?Captain Oddsockshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04171705425795102480noreply@blogger.com5